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My keyless has a nice big hole for the RH2 finger which can be nicely half holed for FNat - my keyed flute has a much smaller hole which is far harder to half hole - so I use the key on that flute… CNat I never half hole anyway - I cross finger or use the thumbholes (acoustically equivalent to a CNat key) on my flutes. I would claim that anything I can play on the whistle I can play on the flute too, but that is not a very strong claim? What I actually claimed at the time was that a flute could produce any sound quality that a low whistle can - i.e.that it could be played so that it sounds like a low whistle.Īll the comments about the impact of hole size on half-holing are very good. Maybe some whistles are different?Īlso, "considering he recently said that anything that could be played on the whistle he could play on the flute." is not what I claimed, my personal ability on the flute not being up to the whole realm of what can be done on the whistle. On both whistle and flute I can manage to get a note "somewhere between" E and D - Sadly that is not good enough for me and I reach for the keyed flute if I really need the note. I’ve heard some close approximations and those from some very good players, but none that would be good enough for anything more than a passing note. Re: Question for - I’ve yet to hear an convincing EFlat on a D whistle. Maybe in a few years time if you stumble over a good one that you know is in playable nick, but otherwise, you won’t be able to afford a good one nor will you be able to cope with the strange tuning that many have. If you don’t know what you want nor what price is appropriate, then this is a very easy way to not get what you want. Bargains can be had, especially if you know what you want and watch the Chiff and Fipple boards for flutes offered for sale. As an extreme example, a new Wilkes flute has a ten year waiting list. Keyed flutes - starting with the M&E as the cheapest keyed option I think and continuing up to the expensive flutes by the top makers. Start to look at this area when you have played another flute for a while and know more about what you want.į. Prices can go up to 1200 Euros, waiting times can vary enormously and people’s preferences as to which maker is "best" also vary enormously. keyless flutes by named and admired makers (Including Casey Burn’s standard flutes). The minimalist style is also very atractive.Į. Mine fills the role of the campfire flute admirably. I personally would recommend this as a good starter. No tuning slide, but tunable within the range of most player/session combinations that are likely to crop up. Folk flute by Casey Burns - Real wood, acoustically very nice (at least the one I have is, as are all the others I’ve seen in the flesh.). M&E, Seery or Dixon conical polymer flutes - I don’t know anything about these but a lot of people start on them - make sure that a dixon is a three piece conical one, not the two piece cylindrical one.ĭ. I don’t own one in D, but I do have one in F which is fine.Ĭ. PVC cylindrical flute from Doug Tipple with Fajardo wedge - not to be confused with plain cylindrical PVC flutes by "someone on ebay". So the advice is to go with a keyless until you know enough about flutes not to need to listen to my advice, at which point you can start the quest to find the right top end keyed flute for you.įrequently recommended startup options are (in order of roughly increasing price/quality)Ī. Most bending of tones will be done by the embouchure and breath support.Ī keyed flute of high quality is far harder to come by and lots more expensive than a keyless.
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Bflat is questionable but also doable for short notes and Eflat is impossible. In order of importance (and in ordeer of increasing difficulty), the accidentals CNat, FNat and Gsharp are all doable with either half holing or cross fingering - half holing being easier on a flute with larger holes. A Keyless flute will do for almost all of the tunes in this repertoire.